This next part troubles me a bit. I know some people are going to have a heart attack, but understand, this is my truck, the deed has already been done, and your opinion on if it was done "right" in your mind, doesn't make any difference to me. This is not a show truck, and frankly I don't care if someone thinks they can see the lap weld in the final paint or not, it is certainly not going to be painted black, and most likely not any dark color.
I moved the wheel arch on the fender rather then take the entire truck apart to correct a 1.5" difference between where the arch is, and where it should have been centered, and I lap welded all the joints! You can butt weld your stuff if its that important to you. The last one of theses I lap welded and flanged the front fenders lasted 12 years through plowing snow before some lady crashed into it and killed the truck and they hadn't fallen off yet (and showed no sign of failing). In 12 years, I'm going to be 78 if I'm still around. I'll deal with it then if it matters then. You do your ride, I'll do mine.

All that said, lets on with it. I looked at all the pictures I had, but there were none of the tire fit with the uncut wheel arch, so your going to have to take my word it was off enough it bugged me enough to cut up a decent pair of fenders and modify both of them.
Pic 1, This is the arch I cut off. It needs to move 1.5" forward so its centered above the tire. Since I'm moving it forward, I'm also raising it up on the fender about 1.5" so the top of the tire is just about even the bottom of the centered arch. When I move this forward, it obviously is going to leave a gap at the back end that I will have to weld a piece in. Because I'm also raising the arch up, the filler patch will be a bit longer and wider. Pic 2, This is the freshly cut off arch clamped into its new position. At this point I used a marker to outline the cut edge of the arch onto the fender, and mark sets of reference marks, one pair at the top center, at least one pair on the front edge, and at least one pair at the back, where the metal is still together. I discovered years ago that when you are dealing with something long, unusual in shape, and a bit flexible, its more accurate to line up a pair of reference marks about an inch apart on a base line, extending the full length (or in this case as close to full length) as possible. In this case, I have marked pairs of reference lines about 3" on each side of each of the clamps as well as the pair at the center line.
Pic 3, The green marker shows the edge of the arch cut, and the pairs of reference marks on the fender.
Pic 4, This shows you how the Dakota wheel on the 4x4 chassis sets in relation to the fenders with the wheel arch cut off. The arch itself extends the tire cover about 2".