remember the fuse box is on painless box becoming on the original MAIN SPLICE.

The MAIN SPLICE needs to keep on alt side of ammeter to keep the right reading

the instruction sheet on painless box says attachs the batt wire on the red 12 gauge fusebox wire just because they are not thinking on an ammeter on the line

So keeping the original wiring, the batt wire will still keep running directly to ammeter.

THEN FROM AMMETER ( black wire ) to the painless fuse box 12 red wire. ( main power source )

The ammeter is simply an IN LINE DEVICE coming from batt, what reads the batt power status.

Imagine the ammeter doesn exist... well you are making the same than instruction sheet says, you are feeding the fuse box from batt... but on this case with an ammeter in the line ( serial conection ).

remember BE SURE hook the right wires at ammeter. The BATT ones at the stud labelled RED on back of cluster, and the black wire at the normally unlabeled stud.

If you hook reversed, won't happen anything more than simply a reversed reading on ammeter

extra note:

remember on stock setup the black traced white wire to headlights switch wire is spliced at the main splice ( alt side ). You can splice it at the main system source ( painless red 12 gauge wire ) or directly to the black stud at ammeter. Will be easier to you hook it with eyelet terminal directly to the ammeter black side stud and will give you a less stressed wire on that section ( section between ammeter and painless fuse box )

If you hook the headlighst wire to the ammeter studs will have 2 wires on red ( original and parallel ) and will have 3 to the black side ( original now running to painless box, parallel and headlights wires )

BE SURE CLEAN the terminals arriving to ammeter AND TIGHT the ammeter nuts to be sure about a good power transfer. Lot of problems use to begin there.

Dunno what you decided to do with the horn relays, using the original or the one with painless box... and still keep the ign key in buzzer. If you decided to keep the original full relay function or if just use the buzzer function of it, the Violet wire of the original relay it must be constantly feeded. As the valiant diagram shows, normally is spliced at the MAIN original splice, so you could run that wire also to ammeter black stud, to the MAIN SYSTEM red wire at painles wire splice or also to any BATT source at fuse box after the fuses.

dunno what else to refresh right now

Dunno what you decided to do with the DASH INSTRUMENT source, from acc side of box