Quote:

I also have a few more questions (as if you didn't have enough to think about, lol). Will the wires passing through the bulkhead be OK as long as I replace the wires and install new terminals with dielectric grease, or should I just run the wires straight through the firewall? Also, should I hook up the gauges to the terminal on the fuseblock that is designated for the gauges? It's a fused terminal.

Thanks so much, Nacho!!!



mmmm, I will run through firewall... no need to get rid off the original bulkhead ones. You can clean and replace terminals and will be definitelly fine, but also would run directy sources at a side of bulkhead.

Keeping the stock wires at bulkhead( once serviced ) will help on use a smaller gauge wire on parallel line. So won't need to use a 6 GAUGE WIRE LOL... just 10 or 12 will be nice to work together with the already existing 12 gauge one. If 10 better, and honestly enough. One 10 and the stock 12 will work more less like you have an 8 gauge wire.

You can in fact use terminals on parallel wires with 10 gauge wire to be able to service the wires or harness if needed for some reason. Automotive terminals are unexistant to 8 or 6 gauge wires( I haven't found at least ).

remember the first step is the parallel wires, but that will be just 40% of the job. The rest 60% is a good alt choice. No need for 100 amps alt really. Stock lates 78 amps is really enough, specially when using smaller pulley.

the reason to use a 100 amps or 120 amps alt or whatever more than that is just because you will get the best charge at iddle posible, but I bet won't use EVER the full alt capacity on your car. really on a basically stock car 78-80 amps alt is SIMPLY ENOUGH. EVEN if you get an ocasional discharge reading, nothing wrong with that.You'll find mostly of cars have a power decay with everything electrical working, just that they don't have an ammeter to take note about LOL and in mostly of these cases NOT EVEN A VOLTIMETER, just the idiot light what just say to you the alt is working because is not getting the circuit closed for a while stator is captioning magnetic field, but is not telling you is enough for your car or if batt is being discharged.



NOW THE QUESTION...

will the parallel wire running from alt post splice into the new fusebox black wire or directly to ammeter ?

THATS WHY I would need to know why this wire runs to painless fusebox.

Maybe just to get this line fuse protected, what woudl mean doesn't arrive to somekind of buss bar ?

if so, you can duplicate the black wire running to fuse box, but splicing directly to ammeter with an in line fuse, like the one it could be at fuse box ( if thats the reason of course )

this last is very important BECAUSE all the load will run directly to the fusebox, and will get a new weak point now there.

how many buss bars do you have on back of new fuse box ? which wires arrives ? If my logic dictates right, you should have just 2 buss bars, one getting orange wire from ign switch and the other one getting red from batt ?

then some individual fuses not linked to any buss bar, like the ign coil one, or maybe in fact the cluster lighting ? the alt exciter ( if you were using ), and stuff not labeled like needing acc or batt sources

lot of what I said is thinking outloud

With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela