Quote: "Seeing" low shifting BBs out ETing SBs is irrellevant. You have no idea the power #s, weights and the million other factors responsible for ET.
We are talking SAME weight AND HP. With that being the case, the engine with more useable rpm can be geared and stalled to create a MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE to accelerate quicker. 3000-6000 powerband is a non-starter, as shift rpm fallback that wide means you need a new converter guy. So who cares what's happening at 3000???
Do you realize how much more flash stall and rear ratio you can use with an engine that hangs on till 7000 vs 6000??? Remember.....same weight car and peak HP.
I see your point but WHY would you go that route if you could do it with less stall and gear? Maybe the post should be which costs less to build... anyway both will work just a matter of how you want to get there.
why are you so hung up on what cost less to build? i have a junk stock stroke/rod 360 with home ported j heads, small solid, torker II and a 750 dp, 3.91 gear, car runs 12.20 with 1.66 60' in a heavy with driver 3460lbs demon. Engine cost $3,400 thats with main studs and line hone all machine work, rods sized etc.. I have beat many 383/440's a couple of the 440's had aluminum heads, i also lost to several 440's etc, so whats your point about cost??? i'm sure i could take this engine apart stick in a 4" crank and pistons for about a grand and drop to around low 11's. With that logic why are you running your big block in that big heavy cowl hood charger? You would go much faster in a A Body or late model Daytona,
