You should have not removed the stock sprag if it was tight and you plan to reuse it. The stock one was peened in place (the flat marks around the sprag in the aluminum case.) For a stock powered driver, reusing the old sprag would be OK if it is still tight when replaced, but for a performance car I would at least get the lower priced bolt-in sprag. If your making really good power, get the more expensive bolt-in super sprag. Consider the cost of the bolt-in sprag as step one to preventing a possible front drum explosion. Step two is the billet drum (pricy $$$.)

For bushings, replace front pump bushing, and front drum bushing (if it is sloppy the sealing rings won't seal and you will loose pressure to the front clutch pack.) The tail shaft bushing also (check fit to driveshaft yoke.) When installing the front pump (converter) bushing, use the round side of a phillips screwdriver to peen it in place, then fit to the converter to make sure it fits before installing the seal and re-assemblin the pump. The front pump thrust bushing (large thin fiber/plastic washer) comes in various thickness. It should be OK if you are re-using the stock gears and drums, but if you start replacing them with the billet parts, then you may need a different thickness bushing to get the correct clearance.

Last edited by 451Mopar; 09/19/14 05:39 AM.