So here’s a summary of the issues I’ve confronted installing a crate 6.1 into an Aussie A body.

The problems Ive listed are common to US A bodies also.

Our engine bay is the same size as a Duster or Demon.

TTI MOUNTS

Using the TTI adapter mount and biscuit style insulators - You can expect an extreme pinion angle, a crooked engine (front to rear) and very little valve cover clearance on the right side inner guard (as viewed from the driving position)

These adapters are badly measured up and other US forums have verified that these issues effect US A bodies as well.

FIX - Centre the engine,

Or

Remove .5" out of the left side TTI Aadapter - this has the effect of lowering the front of the motor and provides more clearance between the motor and the right inner guard.

OIL SYSTEM

DIPSTICK - Milodon are discovering that their 6.1 dipstick is the wrong length.

FIX – ATM they are modifying them on a “return” basis….hopefully they’ll wise up and fix the issue.

MILODON PAN GASKET – Variety of issues – Stud hole not large enough, splash tunnel not deep enough, etc

FIX – Do what I did…use the factory splash tray/gasket and trim the ears off it and drill two extra holes to match the Milodon pan.

OIL FILTER – The TTI right side adapter mount fouls on the TTI block off plate.

FIX – Some small grinding required.

Or,

FIX – Run a Dakota angled filter mount – a shorty filter and some grinding is required.

In any case, clearance for remote oil hoses is tight between the auxiliary oil ports and the Alt.

ALTERNATOR

CLEARANCE - 6.1 passenger Car Alt sits too low and fouls the right frame rail.

FIX – Provided the engine mount problems are fixed…the Jeep Cherokee 6.1 Alt provides more clearance to the inner guard.

The difference in available clearance is about .5"

Or,

FIX - Buy a March pulley kit system

Or,

FIX - Clearance the inner fender fold with a grinder.

REGULATOR CONNECTOR – The modern G3 Alt. has a twin post external regulator socket.

FIX – Connect one to the F(-) on the reg and the other to 12V switched.

CURRENT – The G3 Hemi Alts can make 150 or 160 amps – This will fry the old factory ammeters at full load.

FIX – Fit an extra “shunt” wire that runs from the Alt. post to the starter relay – this “splits” the current and makes it highly unlikely your car will ever draw enough load through the existing Alt wire to cook your ammeter. Use 10 or 12 gauge wire.

SENDERS

COMPATIBILITY - My crate 6.1 runs non-compatible senders to the later MSD Hemi 6 ECU harness.

FIX – Buy later 5.7 Cam and Crank sensor if using the later Msd harness with the MSD ECO.

STARTER

CLEARANCE - The two rear most pan bolt lugs on the left side interfere with the body of the Mopar mini-starter.

FIX – The two left rear-most oil pan bolt lugs cast into the block must be trimmed back to allow clearance for the starter when using the Mopar mini starter.

Or,

Use a 2005 Ram starter. (This may interfere with TTI headers)

RADIATOR

INLET/OUTLET - LOCATION AND DIAMETER - There is no direct compatible radiator for the A Body / G3 6.1 conversion.

FIX - Champion makes a “B Body 6.1 radiator” – however although on the correct side - the inlet / outlet pipe diameters are reversed.

They ARE on the correct side however– so with modifications its still probably the cheapest option.

Hope this helps guess looking into this conversion