Depending what the battery reads when not cranking, it means there is a bit over 1 volt drop when cranking which I don't believe is excessive.

If 10.7 volts is getting to the ignition module and the coil, the car should start.

Now, if we jumpered from the battery to the coil and module a week ago, or whenever it was, then there is no reason for the car not to start when the jumper is there as that would take the drop that we see thru the normal wiring out of play.

It does mean, that if we are seeing 8+ volts on the key side of the ballast, there is a big drop in the circuit but that does not account for it not starting with the jumper in place as that removes the normal circuit.

Can you verify that you did, indeed, jump to both the coil and the module from the battery at the same time?