...
It's a short.
Find the short.
Yes. That is the source of the problem. I should have made those
? bigger. Whether its chafed insulation on a wire or internal to something, somewhere was a path to ground. Electricity is always seeking to find a way to lower voltage.
With respect to the alternator output that Nacho mentioned. This may or may not be a longer term issue depending on how you use the car. The ammeter will show whether the alternator is providing sufficient power at idle. If you drive a lot in situations where the car is idling at lights on, or with AC, or heater fan runnng, that's when the situation he was describing most commonly happens.
agreed... find the short, but can be found after the wiring fixing just not hooking the batt after the fix, but making an ohm testing to ground on these wiring net
aaand, well, I'm looking forward on the alt upgrade as Mattax mentioned to be safe on regular use with the equipment on car
Mattax made the draw splicing the alt wire out of the bulkhead straight to the splice section, then an extra splice from there up to amm. If running the wire out of bulkhead ( not making a stock disposition ) I'd just make one splice between main splice and amm, and run the alt wire straight to the amm. This will save the batt recharge load from run through three splices on its run, will go straight through the ammeter... but, that's me.
( although the main one original wasn't a splice but actually a one piece run with peleed of cover and spliced the rest on it )
you can also disassembly the main splice and run the straight wire, peel off the wire without cut and attach the headlights ( black traced ), fuse box and ign switch ( Red ones ) from the existant splice into a brand new splice like factory did
