so that splice could be factory. I set a link for the wiring diagram from the service manual at the top post I made. Check it out, it will show if that is the case. IT doesn't look melted rather clamped.
maybe yes, maybe no on the test light. Those do provide power into the car and back out. The splices go to other circuits to power them up. But even without them, it would show dead shorts to ground. If every circuit is dead then you know those were the only damage. If something lights up then it is time to trace that circuit.
No damage to be done as the test light is the only load and would prevent further damage.
FYI: Just checked ammeter ohms and it has no continuity. As far as the test light, let me make sure I am doing it right. Thanks in advance for patience, electrical has never been a strong point for me.
battery ground on. Leave positive battery off. attach long wire from + battery to + side of test light. Start checking circuits (at bulkhead connector?) Do I need to ground my test light to the chassis as well? or will the negative battery cable do this for me?
