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I would use 3"x2" in 14 gauge (.083"), it is about 2.67 lbs. per foot. To compare weight, 2"x2" 11 gauge (.120") is 3.07 lbs. per foot. In this application, the lighter wall with the extra 1" of depth will more than make up the strength compared to the heavier wall but smaller tube. Welding it in or to the floor ties everything together much more, in that case I would be tempted to use 3”x1 ½” 14 gauge.

This goes against popular opinion, but I’ll say it anyhow. Tying the rear and front frame sections together will do a minimal amount of good to solve twisting, compared to a roll cage or even a 6 point bar with a couple of diagonals thrown in. I’m not saying it isn’t worthwhile, but it just doesn’t provide the torsional strength needed.

If you use a piece of plywood to represent a flimsy unibody, and nailed 2x4’s on it to represent the front and rear cross members and frame rails, it will be quite flexible. If you connect the two ends in the middle it stiffens it better to act as a bridge or a beam, but you would notice the resistance to twisting is not improved a huge amount. Two parallel frame members don’t resist twisting well, a cage or roll bar adds depth in multiple directions, and will add much more strength.




Thx Mike. the frame rails are about 2" wide, so I was figuring that would fit the easiest over them, so it looks like 14 gauge 2x3 is what I need to get.

I'm definitely planning on some kind of roll bar, just won't be able to swing the dough for it this year. But now that you put it that way, it makes sense that it probably would help even more than the frame ties.

Rich H.

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