Mr Edwards contacted us about a pump gas shortblock. We had a World block in inventory so we offer to build him a King Krate (at normal pricing) with an upgraded crankshaft. We then offered him (if he was interested) in a set of PSO heads that we were developing. Based on the early flow numbers we anticipated an engine that could make 1000 HP on pump gas. Because it was a development deal we offered him the top half of the engine at cost over a set of original B1 heads. We would also dyno the engine for free. The value of this extra work is approximately $7000
Because the top half of the engine was at cost it was not #1 priority to finish. The engine was on and off the dyno a few times and we had made over 15 dyno pulls with no valve train issues.
Mr Edwards contacted us and said that the engine had been idleing for a long time a grabbed a valve. Because of the inconvience and delays I had eric send this e-mail
On Monday, June 1, 2015 5:31 PM, Eric Budden <ericbudden@yahoo.com> wrote:
Please let me know when the engine is in the crate and ready for pick-up. Mike figures turnaround time to be 2 weeks. Please forward any areas of concern other than bushing the lifter bores.
Thanks
Eric@M/M
After a day of no response I sent this e-mail.
It the adjuster is tight where did the extra play come from?
I had Eric contact you and offer for us to have the engine picked up. We have the BHJ fixture and can bush the block immediately. We would address any other concerns you may have and return it to you all at no cost.
Let me know your thoughts.
Mike @MM
Yes, there have been issues. Should there have been, no. Still we offered to stand behind it, bring the engine back, address any and all concerns, give an exact timeline for repairs and return it at no cost. Mr Edward s has refused this offer.
This clears up some of it, as was pointed out by camastomcat and Monte (and others) 22k is on the light side for something of that nature.
As for the stuck vale, I know of 3 issues that can cause it. Obviously, one of them is too little clearance. Closely related to that is when a supplier changes materiel and it requires more clearance than the SAME part number did before. Some brands of guide that I use/have used get no less the .0025 on the intake and .0035 on the exhaust. I always hone bronze guides as reaming them is a PITA, and sometimes they are not very round. The third thing is a common one that comes around from time to time. It's caused by myth and old wives tales. When starting an engine, I would rather see too much timing than not enough. To some, that is counter intuative. They think you need to "break in" an engine so dial everything down and back, when in reality, the only thing that needs a break in period is a HFT or SFT cam. Anything else is bull crap.
When you run the timing retarded, the EGT's go through the roof. Then the valve has to deal with all the heat. When it can't, the stem grows larger than the clearance and it grabs a guide. It won't matter if it has .005 on it.
As for the oil pressure issue, the OP has not yet stated what the oil pressure is, what filter he used or the brand and grade of oil.
If you did what you say you did, and your offer stands, then the rest of it is on the OP. I would like to see stem diameters, guide diameters, crank dimensions and housing bore measurements posted. If the numbers are posted the math is simple enough but I would think .0028-.0032 on the rods (ASSuming Chrysler rod throws...take about .0003 off for BBC throws) and .0035-.0035 on the mains. Much tighter than that and you can grab a bearing. Tha is, of course, my opinon. Others may think otherwise.
