This was using gas (Renegade 112), first time in 20 years I'm running gas. All the .90 index say that you can predict day to day changes much easier with gas over alcohol. They did say if you could always get a time trial before eliminations that alcohol is the way to go but NHRA .90 racing doesn't work they way most of the time. (was told this by APD and several very successful .90 racers)

The dyno fuel system was an Aeromotive A2000 pump to an Aeromotive 2 port dead head regulator. He builds and dynos a lot of big hp motors and it works fine. I thought he run a little low on the pressure, on those pulls it ran from 4.8 - 4.4psi.

For my fuel system, I'm using my 20+ year old Enderle mechanical pump (it's been rebuilt and tested several time) and spring/shim bypass regulator you can see just on top of the pump. For Alcohol I've just ran that and didn't run another regulator so it idled at 3psi and went up to 9 psi down track. So we put the bigger spring and shims in it to keep at least 10psi going to the dead head regulator even at idle.

We set my regulator around 6 psi. I would have like to set it closer to 7.5 but I was in the dyno room adjusting and he was at the console telling me when it was good and we didn't discuss what psi to set it at, he just gave me the thumbs up at 6psi. As you can see in the detail sheet, it started at 5.8 and dropped to 5.4 so I'll add in another shim to the pump regulator and also increase the dead head regulator up to 7.5 psi when I head to the track.

These pictures are when we were using my fuel system using the front mounted fuel tank, the dyno fuel tanks are in the cabinet at the back of the dyno room.

Some of the challenged we faced:
- initial start up - it sneezed 2 times so we thought I had the distributor 180 out but I didn't, so we moved it 5 degree to see if that would help it
- got it started, adjusted timing to 38 degrees but it wouldn't idle below 1,600 and when it went below, it would sneeze up through the intake and die
- so we decided that some of the intakes weren't adjusted right and holding a few valves open, we re-adjusted all the valve and found a few that were too tight (I let him do it, he's quicker and had a little different method)
- also did a quick trace on some of the plug wires and 4 and 7 were swapped so good there
- started it up gain and still wouldn't idle below 1,600 so we replaced the 47 idle air bleeds all the way down to 24
- AF mixture was decent but still wouldn't idle
- pulled valve covers, plugs and wires, traced firing order and rocker motion for each cylinder and discovered that the cam wasn't a 4/7 swap cam after all......
- moved wire around, put the 47 idle air bleeds back in everything was perfect, idled down to 900 easily and AF mixture was perfect.

A one point he almost told me to take the motor home and figure out what's going on because something wasn't right and it wasn't ready for a pull....

It was good to get that figured out but now I have no idea what cam is in the motor.... the guy I got it from gave me the spec and told me it was a 4/7 swap and I confirmed with him again yesterday that it was indeed a 4/7 swap so I have no clue what cam is in the motor... I only have 1 other roller cam and it's still with my other motor.

We never adjusted the timing, we did pull the plugs a few times and they looked perfect so we didn't try moving it.

Looks like I may need to back the oil pressure down a little, but since this is pulling off the main oil galley I will probably just leave it, unless you guys think it will cause problems.

Let me know what you think about the other readings on this last chart.

One other question I had for you guys when looking at gregsdart's dyno graph compared to mine, the torque curve on mine was really flat and his was more of an arch, what would explain that and what will that mean on the track? (just curious)