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Given the way you like to dial things in, I'd almost wonder if a conversion to a splined tubular sway bar wouldn't be the better choice. Open up the K frame some(its not as strong as you might think) to allow up to 2.5" and pick up the pieces for a splined kit. Odds are you could put on together one for around $200. Swapping out the splined bar for more precise rates could be done for as little as $100, maybe less if you shop for used ones. Plus the options for end links may prevent any potential tire interference issues.

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In my next iteration chassis wise I'll be using Schroeder hollow splined sway bars and arms. They are a little more pricey than $200 for a "kit" but....
I have a set of arms and a few different diameters to try and lots more are available.
I currently have A-body LCA's(3/16" longer than E/B-Body's) and 1.120" FF torsion bars. I don't see C-Body sized torsion bars being beneficial to cars that run on the street most of the time. A strictly race car ok, but not a street car. Unless you have a cage and spend a lot of time and effort bracing the entire chassis the whole car becomes a torsion bar when you go too big. How big is too big? I don't know?
I'm think really big torsion bars are a bandaid solution to the poor geometry built into our cars. All your really doing is limiting the suspension travel and making a go cart out of it? Like others have said you will end up breaking spot welds etc... Sure the car will handle better than stock but only because your not letting the suspension travel and that will make for a horrible street car ride I would imagine? If that's what your after why not just make the suspension bump stops taller?
I'm no "expert" but I'd rather work on the geometry , shocks, and sway bars instead of trying to " limit/eliminate" suspension travel.
IMO bigger/biggest is not always better, leave that stuff in Hotrod magazine where it belongs or to the snake oil salesman trying to sell you the latest parts ?
What size you choose has to do with the application. If your building a high banked superspeedway car sure you will need C-Body sized torsion bars. If your occasionally autocrossing and mainly street driving then I'd say Firm Feel has us all covered . Variables such as engine weight etc. will determine what's best .Every car/combo will be different. I get the feeling some people think I'll just bolt in "this" size torsion bar and my car will handle on rails. I've found it's not just one part, it's the combo of parts and again every car combo/weight will be slightly different. I chose a T-Bar that will allow 2-3" of travel.My theory/idea is to control/improve what happens in 2-3" of suspension compression , the rest is secondary. It's always a compromise, there is no free lunch as they say.