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I can pull the metering blocks and get a measure for you. Can you diagram which holes you're referring to?




Yes, later today, if necessary. See below.

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Also, would it be a good idea for me to try the #70 and #30 first and see how that works?



Probably not. If indeed your idle is rich, dropping your IABs to 70 from 75 would make it richer. The only reason you'd want to do that would be if you weren't sure it was lean. See BSB67's previous question.

Changing the MABs (Main Air Bleeds) will have no effect at idle because you've already checked and your throttle plate/transfer slot relationship is correct, and viewing the T-slot with the carb at idle (with carb upside down, off the car) the only exposed T-slot looks like a square. The mains (and hence the Main Air Bleed) would not be working with the throttles closed to this point, which is how the carb is supposed to work. We KNOW this is the case, because you checked, right? If not, disregard everything else that's been said until the throttle plate/T-slot thing is checked and corrected.

CUDAHLR describes one of the methods for correcting the throttle plate/T-slot relationship. Don't touch that screw unless you've got more than a square of T-slot exposed at idle - it will accomplish nothing under these conditions. I was under the impression that we put that issue to bed a few weeks ago, so either confirm that the throttle plates have been checked against the T-slot at idle, or let's fix it and move on.

I'll wait to post the metering block pics until you get back us that the throttle plates are correct at idle.

Tell you what - I'll post some pictures of correct and incorrect throttle plate postions at idle and you can confirm yours is correct. All this renewed discussion of transfer slots make me nervous.

Check back for photos later today.

Jim