The 11.something reading was with the engine OFF. With the motor running, the reading on the blue wire of the ballast is 14+V.
A normal, fully charged battery should hold 12.8 volts. Your ignition system will draw 3.6 amps (only!) and your voltage feed to the ballast & coil drops to 11.something...there is something that doesn't add up...
Voltage at battery is ~12.7V (not fully charged from cranking), voltage @ black pin on ign switch harness is ~12.25V, voltage at blue pin of ign switch harness is ~12.05V.
Looks like I am losing about .4 volt on each bulkhead connections (and wire run) and about 1/4 volt on the ignition switch itself. This would account for the difference. However running it's 14+V @ the ballast so I think that's OK.
I agree it seems high but those connections are CLEAN and packed with dialectric grease. I dn't see it getting much better...
Having the bulkhead connections, kleen and packed with dia-lectric grease are (2) of the 3 requirements... The other one is being tite..
The female tab 0.25" tab connector on the firewall side must grip the male side titely... After 45 years these connections can be marginal and it doesn't take much to lose the required voltage. What I normally do is to insert a small pair of needle nose pliers and crimp down slightly on the female side...
