Quote:

I can't comment on blue and brown sides of things, but generally speaking:
- the 11.7V at the "high side" of the ballast resistor seems low. You should have full battery voltage here (i.e. about 13-14 volts engine running). The low voltage may indicate you have a bad connection in the feed to the ballast resistor (i.e. from the ignition switch/bulkhead connectors).
- Your measured resistance is 1.2 Ohms (coil, normal for a Blaster 2 if I remember correctly) and 2 Ohm (probably normal for a ballast resistor). This means you have a current which is U/(1.2+2). With 11.7V the current is 3.66 Amps.

This means that the voltage drop across the ballast resistor is 3.66A * 2 Ohms = 7.3 volts (if you measure to ground you have 11.7-7.3= 4.4 Volts on the positive terminal of the coil)

Now we come to the problem with measuring:
- On the "low side" of the ballast resistor you have a square wave type voltage, and the same on the low side of the coil (towards the ECU). With a normal universal multimeter you cannot get an accurate measurement, because these meters can only measure a DC voltage/current, and an AC sine wave voltage/current. But you have a square wave (not pure DC, not a sine wave AC), and all readings will be incorrect. They can however be used for indications, but not for any accurate calculations.
Hope this gives you some ideas how to compare with your measurements.

Basically your values seem correct, the low voltage to the ballast resistor would interest me.
You can always put a direct 12V feed to ballast resistor, and see if the engine keeps running.

The ignition coil will be a bit slow to start drawing current (because of the inductance, like to start spinning a wheel), but it increases rapidly and remains constant at Ucoil/Rcoil i.e. 4.4V/1.2Ohms = 3.6 Amps. The time usually allowed by electronics to charge an ignition coil is approx. 5/1000 seconds (5 milliseconds). An old points system is different with a variable time (longer for low rpms, shorter for high rpms...).

Sorry for the long text, early morning here and new energy...good luck in finding the bad connection.




Thanks for the analysis so I don't feel quite so stupid now.

I should have noted that all these measurements are with the engine off. So the voltage loss through the bulkhead connectors/ignition switch is about 1 V compared to the battery + terminal.

Robert, what do you think could be wrong with the carb? I had this car tuned before this stuff happened and everything was fine (no dying issue). The guy went through the carb as well. I don't have another carb unfortunately but is there anything I should look for?