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I rebuilt the front suspension using poly bushings in the UCAs and strut rods, but used rubber bushings in the LCAs.



There is a slop point in the rubber. Minor, but still there.

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I have 1" torsion bars and a 1 1/8" front sway bar with KYB shocks.



Aside from the shocks, thats decent.

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The alignment is set to 1/2 degree NEG camber, 3 degrees POS caster and zero toe. The rear has MP leaf springs, a 3/4" sway bar and KYB shocks. 18x9 front wheels with 275-40-18 Nitto 555 tires, 18x10 rears with 295-45-18 Nitto tires.



Again, decent except for shocks. However, I do see a flex point in there. With 275 front tires, you have massive amounts of rubber on the ground. This much rubber will generate a fair amount of traction, which means it will resist directional changes. You need to increase the leverage on that grip to generate directional change. That increased leverage puts additional loads in to the steering box and idler arm mounts. If you have not gussetted these areas to resist the deflection, they WILL flex and delay steering response.

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NO frame connectors yet... Thats one of the upcoming changes. I have a Firm Feel stage 3 steering box with Fast ratio idler and pitman arms.



No frame connectors allows the body becomes an active, yet inconsistent, member of the susension. Definetly need to correct this. A solid unibody is the foundation of the car. With the fast ratio arms, there is the additional leverage that is flexing the steering and idler mounts. Also, you never mention if you rebuilt the steering coupler. There are a couple of pieces in there that will wear and require rebuilding after some time.

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Sometimes the rear end wants to come around whether I'm on the throttle or not. I rarely if ever get any understeer. I have an aluminum headed 440 stroker which may weigh about the same as the iron headed 318 that was there originally. I'm sure that my roll stiffness is greater at the rear than the front and I could remedy this 2 ways: Either increase the front rate with larger torsion bars or a thicker sway bar.... OR reduce the rear with softer springs or a smaller sway bar.



You have this understood and know what you need to do. Firm Feel does offer 1.25 front sway bars, or more easily, you could take a leaf out of the rear spring pack.


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My question is as stated... What suspension mods or upgrades have you made with your B body? I'm curious as to what others are using and how well it works... Thanks!



My '67 had subframe connectors and a gusseted k-frame, poly bushings everywhere, .96 t-bars, 1.125 front s-bar, MP leaf springs, Mopar Oval Track shocks, Firm feel steering with fast ratio arms, 15x8 wheels with Goodyear Gatorbacks. It was very street friendly and handled very well It would run head to head with my friend's 944 on mountain drives.

My '74 is a bit more aggressive. It has subframe connectors, but they are Xed, Also torque boxes and k frame gussets, Poly bushings through out, 1.22 t-bars with 1.125 fron s-bar, 1.0 rear s-bar, MP oval track zero arch springs, Firm Feel steering with quick ratio arms, single adjustable Varishocks. I'm playing with a tubular upper arm design but haven't decided on it yet. I need to figure out how much camber gain I want and fab up the mounting system for the install. I may just use the stock arms with offset bushings until I get that figure out. For now I'm also sticking with 15" rubber, but it will move up to 17" eventually. Since this one isn't on the street yet, can't comment on it its manners or erformance.