Quote: Yep......I am out as well. This has wasted enough of my time. I know what works for me and I will continue to do so.
As far as the statement above about the trans being 2* down, meaning the rear would have to be 2* up and somebody thinking that was CORRECT just because angles were equal on both ends. Try that in a high HP hard leaving car and let me know how it goes. Just make sure you have good loops and some extra parts.......LOL!!!
Monte
The Term used was "Under load", so your numbers would be correct Plus "Equal and Opposite" angles. Witch would make them Ideal and parallel under load.
It was just a example of a perfect scenario of two different planes of the two centerlines that we stock bodied cars see.
A perfect scenario of a Wrong example was #2 where the angle of the pinion was 0 with the shaft, but not with the tranny.
U joints dont work that way, they will be in a bind and eat HP.
Those are the Facts Mam
or maybe just my opinion of the facts.
Everthing is fine though 10 years + going on, the two pinion angle camps have never seen eye to eye. But we still get along.
In reality, our street/race car pinion angles will be so dynamic in pinion movement, that your two methods of choice wont make a whole lot of difference.
But technically/factually U joints work together and they want to be in sync., working in Parallel angles. Whether it be straight or on different planes. If there not, they are binding. We set Pinion angle to Best get them there under load.
This is a Fact, not a Opinion.
IMO, This part of it, should never ever be the Debate part of it.
2° trans down and 2° pinion up is parallel and the relative pinion angle would be 0° under load...Not 2° nose up which is what I think some of these guys are interpreting it as...drive shaft angle is irrelevant as u-joint angle will be equal and opposite at both joints.
Plus "Equal and Opposite" angles. Witch would make them Ideal and parallel under load. 
or maybe just my opinion of the facts. 
