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Set the initial (on manifold) then set the slots to 35 (vac capped) then mix/match springs FOR WOT then rehookup the vac adv & check it at a steady state high vacuum on the highway at an RPM above where the slots are maxed out AND just under the pinging point in everyday driving under varied vac conditions. I should check the 1406 on my 318 DD & look down & see if the secondaries are wide open at WOT and raise the idle to 750 & see if there's still no vacuum on the pass ported nipple



Gotcha. I need to work on the brakes next so it might be a while before I can get it on the road to try out, though.

If you find out that you getting something other than little to no vacuum on the ported vacuum when you bring up the RPMs then that might make some sense- I know if I drop my RPMs down to.... I'm thinking 650rpm... then the vacuum drops to below 10"Hg. Now if I understand how the vaccum can works on the distributor though, if it's expecting (and had been calibrated for) a certain amount of vacuum to begin with then I might be ok?

I just had another thought.... I think it's a long shot but the vacuum gauge I've been using is fairly old and may've gone out of adjustment. I'm going to see tomorrow if I can't rent (or buy if I have to) a gauge just to check to make sure I'm really getting valid readings.


'69 Dodge Charger R/T