Couple notes on many of the above posts.

When we're talking ideal blower cam, vs. ideal turbo cam... it's not to say that the same can't work pretty well for both. A lot of the turbo cam has to do with the exhaust turbine wheel size, the A/R ratio of the housing, and foot print (T4/T6). So it's hard to just speak in generalitys to know if you have a "good turbo cam". My first custom turbo cam had 4 degree's less exhaust duration then intake. My second custom turbo cam has 5 more degree's exhaust then intake. Just different school's of thought on what works, from two different people.

What's funny is the cam he has listed above is not all that far off from my custom turbo grind. (Same intake duration, 5 deg. of exhaust, and 2 degree's of lobe sep.) I would NEVER spend the money on a new turbo cam if I already had that in possession in a blower motor that was being converted. If you were building a heads up world record competing machine... then yes... worry about it. If you're just trying to make a bunch of boosted power... then you're in the ball park.

As for the heads, remember that a boosted motor deals with a lot higher pressure ratios then a N/A head. Both pressure coming in the intake, and pressures to help the exhaust side out. Now a turbo motor really gets plugged up with the turbine itself, so making a killer exhaust port really isn't a big concern because it's not your bottle neck. The blower motor can get it out and benefit from a good exhaust port.

A good port speed 300cfm head will make LESS power then a lazy port speed 300cfm head when both are boosted (within reason of course). But that is because the airspeed is through the roof on the small port when you throw a bunch of boost at it and gets choked up. The lazy port will get the airspeed more in line where it should be when you throw boost at it.

My motor has a 230@.050" / .540 cam in it. Literally the lower I shift it... the quicker the car is. Even though it has CNC ported EDDY heads on it that flow 300cfm, they were designed for N/A with good port speed, and just don't want to go a lot of RPM. I have the shift light set around 5800rpm on my car. Any lower then that and the converter flash just keeps the light on the entire run... LOL

The bottom line is... you're thinking into this way too much. Buy a cheap set of heads... put good valves in it so they don't get warped/beat up, and if you're not happy with the performance on the first day... just turn the knob up... a good sized turbo will break that block no problem... what do you care if the motor comes apart at 25psi or 30psi. Either way it's probably going to ruin the set of heads no matter how much you pay for them.