Originally Posted By dizuster
I wouldn't worry about a cast 360 crank at 675hp... mine has a cast crank in it (has never even been turned) and makes somewhere in the 850hp range.

Obviously there is some difference between the blower and the turbo... but if mine will make 850hp, your's can make 675hp.

If you're talking 100% stock short block... you'd be pushing it REAL hard to go to 675hp. I'd say 500~550hp on cast pistons with a good tune is about the limit (we're just about finished with a 100% stock magnum 318 with a 69mm turbo going in a Demon... so we'll see).

If you're talking about main studs, rod bolts, and forged pistons... you should be able to make 675hp as long as the tuneup is good, and you have the proper fuel for the boost numbers you're talking about.

Mine with a stock 1/2 filled block, stock crank, main studs, ARP rod bolts, and off the shelf forged pistons made over 700hp. That was the point I put good rods and better pistons in it.

My guess is you'd be able to max that blower with a good intercooler and good fuel before it ever broke the block. Especially if it's partial filled.


Wow, great news from the voice of experience. Always somebody busting through the glass ceiling.

I was looking into partial filling my block 15yrs ago before I took a hiatus from muscle cars.

So you are saying filling is much more important than a girdle as long as studs are used?

As stated earlier I do have diamond forged pistons, the cheezy version of eagle rods, ARP main studs were acquired recently, etc.
Bought this stuff over a decade ago.




Going to take my CAST crank to get it turned down to 2.1 rod throws and .010 off the mains to clean it up.


I'm head hunting now.
Having trouble deciding on the 171cc or 185-190cc heads. Going back and forth.

I know for a fact I will buy the victor equivalents when I build my BB.
265cc range.
Got a forged crank for it already and chevy rods are cheap. Biggest durability expense will be the pistons I"d suppose.


Last edited by prochargedmopar; 05/17/17 04:19 AM.

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