Originally Posted By RapidRobert
I would suggest: (1) turn dampener till the slit is at your preferred initial setting on #1 compression & if that ain't set in stone you might set it at 15 BTDC (2) clock the intergear anywhere it needs to be so the rotor is facing forward and slightly to the pass side (start with the slot parallel to the eng). (3) (final) install of dist & turn housing so can is on pass side in the general range of motion it needs to be for adjustments. (4) turn housing slightly till the P is in position to fire (just like the MP magnet/tooth setup would be doing). (5) plug in #1 plug wire in the cap right above the rotor location. Fire it up! Caveats: Sometimes the intergear will rise up off of the cam gear with a large screwdriver. Sometimes it takes a pair of coat hangar wires with an L bent on the ends or a loop of very thin wire so it will nestle in the teeth root on opposite sides of the gear cuz it is tight in there. As said you might need to slightly turn the oil pump with a 5/16" hex rod. Locating the #1 plug wire location in the cap to be forward and slightly to the pass side maintains the OE order (helps prevent future mistakes) & lets the wires nestle in place the neatest with the shortest lengths possible for their routing (As you know clocking is CW from #1)


Are you talking about a big block or maybe I'm confused. Mine is a 340 with the distributor on the back of the engine. Clockwise rotation and my no 1 cylinder is supposed to be the one on the front left so I was thinking the slot should point slightly toward the driver side to put the distributor where I want it. In line with the no 1 front left cylinder. Here's a pic.

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1970 EK2 T/A 727