If you would have got the ignitor 11 and matching coil you can by pass the ballast and just hook red wire to + side of coil and the other wire to the - side of the coil.
I can do that anyway. I need to know how to wire the setup while including the ballast resistor so everything looks correct too. The ballast has a single blue wire on the passenger side or upside and a blue and brown wire on the lower post or toward the drivers side. The assembly manual says the single blue wire is ignition 1 the brown and blue wire is ignition 2. The Pertronix directions say to wire it to the ignition switch side of the resistor. Which post is it? I've attached the instructions.
FYI...be sure to re-time the ignition as the Pertronix install can rephase the system anywhere from 5 degrees ATDC to 15 degrees BTDC, so depending on where your current timing is, your engine might not start because the timing is too far off
Get rid of the ballast, it's a weak link in the system, the red wire from the HallCell goes to the positive side of the coil, the black lead from the HallCell goes to the negative side of the coil, the blue/dark blue ignition lead from your bulkhead connector goes to the positive side of the coil, gut out the ballast resistor and solder in an insulated 10 gauge piece of wire in the back cavity of the resistor, now just attach the resistor leads as they were originally on the ballast, you now have the look of having the ballast, but without the issues of a ballast, plus the system is now running a true 12 volts, be sure to gap the HallCell with the plastic gauge supplied, don't use any metal feeler gauges, copper terminal cap only, no solid core wires, don't remove the green tape on the HallCell magnet, don't leave the key in the run position for more than 30 seconds without the engine running, if you need to do so, disconnect the RED lead from the positive side of the coil...you are using the correct Pertronix coil?...right
Mike
