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I knew there was supposed to be the factory prop valve further down the line as I've heard of other people's woes when they try the KH swap; however, my friend told me that the lines going to the rear look fairly new so I'd have to check to see if the previous owners moved it over or just got rid of it (you know the quality of their "engineering"). So really, there's no need to swap the factory distribution block, because if not, that's one less thing to change/purchase.

Also, my friend made lines that on his Demon that had the lines moving from the distribution block, to the core support and then coming back to the passenger side instead of snaking through the firewall. If I do it this way, should I be worried about line pressure as the line going to the passenger side may end up being a couple feet longer. Basic fluid dynamics state the longer the line, the more losses a fluid endures as it travels it.



Right, the factory block is basically empty and is basically a convenient T fitting with a warning light unless its a 73+ car.

As far as the length of the line - you are mentioning the resistance to flow caused by length and bends, but this really isn't a concern with incompressible fluids and relatively small amounts of flow. We're talking a front caliper using maybe 4cc of fluid at 200 bar. The longer line may cause a very small amount of hydraulic delay, but I would not be concerned. Pressure will of course be the same in a steady state apply. The current 300/Charger/Challenger have very long TMC to ESC module pipes and also pipes that run from the ESC module to the left front wheel that are also very long and run across the core support.

That being said, I see no reason to remove them from the firewall. If anything, the firewall allows you to use less tube, has hangars, and is less likely to flex ever.

'70 Duster 470hp 340/T56 Magnum/8 3/4 3.23 Sure-Grip