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Yes you can switch spindles and your calipers will be mounted in the rear.

I was really worried 3 years ago when my stock rear mount calipers hit those Hotchkis UCA's. Hotchkis saw the interference first hand. I thought they were going to add that info to assembly instructions.

I just hoped an aftermarket caliper would clear. But I've been looking at Wilwood and DrDiff setups at shows for years and just knew I was hoping a square peg would fit a round hole.

My plan is to run front air ducts with rear mount aftermarket calipers. Running air ducts to the front is much cleaner than the rear. And I don't even think there is room with the shock to get a 3" duct to the rear.

This S*CKS



My friend jokingly asked me, "If you want, we can machine your caliper." I took a look at it and said, "What are you going to do, machine off the entire bleeder?" It was pretty bad. At full droop, the caliper didn't hit the UCA, but they overlapped by an inch or so.

What would be the issue with running a brake duct to the front of the rotor beneath the caliper?



Is there that much room there to do that? Could you take a pic from the inside when you get the rotor on.

Also, a 3" duct will sit very low with the caliper up front. Most likely below the LCA.

What is also bad is if a customer was running a Hotchkis UCA with stock or non Hotchkis aftermarket front sway bar that mounts to the stock sway bar mount on the LCA. Those customers (potential customers) typically run the calipers to the rear. There are 4 combinations of that rear caliper setup:

rear pin calipers 10.75" rotor
rear pin calipers 11.75" rotor (I've tested, does not work)
rear slider caliper 10.75" rotor
rear slider caliper 11.75" rotor

I haven't tested the 3 other combinations. IMHO, it's a higher than 50/50 chance are they will not work.