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so got everything back from the machine shop, getting ready to assemble the engine, I do have a few questions before I fire it up, and I have killed the search button, but there are just so many different ways to cut the cake, it gets a bit confusing, and looking for clarity so i do it right, since this is my first real (mild) performance build.

I have read that you can run just straight water, then once its broke in drain and fill with anti-freeze, which makes sense especially if (knock on wood) you have leaks, but any truth to running it with no t-stat for break in ?
>>> most shops with a dyno run with no t-stat and straight water for 25 min at 2000 rpms.

I also remembering hearing when breaking in a fresh motor, that you should run exhaust manifolds vs headers, any truth to that ?
>>> yes because the headers can get red hot/ so use the dyno headers or some old manifolds. not new shiney headers definitely

Is the general rule of thumb to start it and set timing then bringing it up to the varied 1800-2000/2500rpms or start it bring it up to the varied rpm for break in, then bring it to idle and set the timing ?

What is the go to oil for break in, straight 30W, any 30W with a ZDDP additive ? conventional dino, semi or full syn ? I have also heard "break it in with what you plan on running in it" ?
>>> Brad Penn 20w50 or some other racing oil not straight weight not rotella fleet oil or some cheap stuff. run the good stuff.

How soon to change it after the break in is complete ? I have heard right after, 200-500 miles of mild driving, so ??
>>>first 500 miles vary the speeds dont drive at a constant 55 or something. continued high rpms can damage bearings and lots of jack rabbit starts before it's broke in can damage the rings. depends on your setup and how well everything is clearanced and built though. if everything is perfect it will take a lot of abuse. change oil at 500 or 1000 ... a good idea

And I know this topic has been beaten worse then a tough chunk of meat, BUT who uses normal dino oil with an additive vs say brad penn/gibbs/VR1 etc ? I don't mind paying extra for quality, but if you get the same results at the end of the day and can save a bit, hey its a good day.

How much ZDDP is too much ? in a diesel vs reg/semi syn/full syn,I know that the higher zinc is good, higher phosphorus is bad.
>>>just use Brad Penn, it's good stuff. you can order it off summit. valvoline has a racing oil as well. there are a few others but why experiment

Thanks as always,
-Mike