Quote: START YOUR CAR AGAIN (IF YOU CAN) AND WHILE IT IS RUNNING, PULL OFF THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE.. SEE IF IT STAYS RUNNING.. IF IT DIES RIGHT AWAY, SOMETHING IS WRONG IN YOUR CHARGING CIRCUIT.. BAD ALTENATOR, REGULATOR, SHORTED WIRE, BAD GROUND, ECT.. THAT IS DRAINING YOUR BATTERY..
do not do that!!!
An automobile is a DC system. When the battery is disconnected it will go into an open circuit and the voltage will sky rocket. This causes a high voltage spike and can instantly destroy any component in the vehicle with an integrated circuit!! It may not be immediate, but it will show up. This includes your radio, tach, ignition module, clock etc... anything with a little circuit board.
many have gotten away with it, but that dont make it right! Its old school diagnostics at best.
A cheap voltmeter will at least tell you if the alternator is trying to charge the battery to the regulators set point. Any voltage increase with the car running as opposed to not running will show the alternator's attempt to charge the battery. It doesnt mean it can though. To find out for sure you need to find out how many amps the alt is putting out. Then determine where those amps are going. If all is normal or acceptable, then you must check starter draw with an amp probe. If the starter draw is excessive, now you must determine the cause. Is the motor seizing? is the timing way too far advanced? are the starter bushings worn out?? is there a belt driven component seizing making it difficult to turn over?
and of course, your battery will need to be capable of suppling the required amps to crank this engine properly, and the cables will also need to be up to the task.
as you can see, this requires some proper equipment to diagnose properly, and may be better left to a true professional. It might save you some money.
