No need to pick on MrP because he doesn't HAVE a leaf spring car. If you understand suspension, you understand suspension and how it works. Charlie Buck doesn't have a Pro-Mod, but I sure don't question him when he tells me something about one.

Now, on to the basic problem here. As covered at nauseum, the problem lies in the inability of the front segment to remain straight. You are winding it up, which rotates the housing and slams the bars. The fact that you run the bars bumper high and they still slam, tells you that you have a LOT of axle windup. The blocks position the housing well above the plane of the spring. This increases the leverage as the forces are driving the pinion as it tries to climb the ring gear and that lever is now not on the spring itself. You have increased the leverage with which it can wrap the front segment. Stiffer shock setting will slow the housing separation, but will do NOTHING to stiffen the segment. You ONLY stiffen the segment by actually stiffening it. You are NOT going to "trick" the car into acting like it's stiffer. It's stiff or it's not. A stiffer spring BEHIND the housing will not do dick to make the front part more stiff. It can't, that's mechanically impossible. You want to "try" something........take the front segment, clamp it flat and bolt a full length piece of 3/8 spring steel to it from housing to spring eye. Be sure and put it UNDER the spring, so that you can extend it under the eye. You put it on top and stop it before the eye, right where you stop is where it WILL bend it.

There was a reason "old school" guys who ran multi-leafs had a spring clamp at EVERY few inches in the front. MAKE THE FRONT SEGMENT STIFF. This mentality and fact has NOT changed over the years. To stop axle windup, you need a stiff, as close to solid front segment as you can get. You are off here, NOTHING else will help.

While the choice of "cool guy" parts for leaf cars has changed over the years, the basic premise of what you need to do has NOT. ALL rear suspension types do the same thing......prevent axle windup. Ladder bars came next and fixed that. However, as power increased, the short ladder bars pounded the tire too hard. 4-links were developed to in essence make a really long ladder bar to get the IC further out to reduce "hit" on the tire. So these days, with big power and leafs or ladder bars and their violent nature, you MUST have a really GOOD shock to try and control how violently the power can "throw" the housing, which is exactly what is happening. When you drop the hammer, the power is basically trying to throw the housing out from under the car. High powered 4-link cars beat heim ends out of lower bars and elongate bracket holes. WHY? because it is trying to roll the housing and the lower bar stops that. That little physics fact tells you why a front spring segment has to be super stiff on a leaf car.

To FIX a problem, you first have to understand the problem and what it is going to take to correct it..........Most don't