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The search function here is terrible too so it's hard to find specific info.



There are two search functions, one in the bulletin board and one powered by g**gle. Agreed they're not the best but I've used worse. One reason you are not finding specific info is that there is no one size fits all, especially for a vehicle that is multi-purpose.

You can probably sell or trade the manual box. They're adjustable and rebuildable but some have a bushing type bearing at the bottom. I'm sure places like FF can and do machine them. For your car, go power steering.

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The brakes on my car are terrible right now. I have SSBC 4 piston manual brakes with a 15/16 aluminum master and 10" drums in the rear. Car won't slide the tires on gravel. I have a drum/drum dist block and no prop block.


If you get stuck on this probably best to start a seperate thread either here or general tech section. Yes the lack of prop valve will be a problem.
Beware that the factory had a variety of arrangements for disk/drum. Residual valves and proportioning were located in various places depending on year and model. So you need to do some investigating but its not that complicated.

Unless you're running a brake lining that needs heat before it starts to really work, you're right that something is wrong. Bleed, adjust, check. If there's no proporting valve those drums should be locking up first.

Now, as to valving, here's what you need to have:
Residual valve: Somewhere in the system going to the rear brakes there should be a residual valve. It's small, and acts a partial check valve. Could be in the distribution block, could be in the master cylinder front resevoir outlet. Maybe elsewhere - I won't pretend to know all the variants especially on B-bodies and late models. The residual valve helps counteract the return springs.
Proportioning Valve: If SSBC did not have a matching one they supply, and maybe they can't due to the variety of combinations, buy a little adjustable one, and place it in the rear line. Early a-body factory ones were adjustable, later they were incorporated into the distribution block. As above, there were probably more varations. However, based on what you wrote, I don't think there isn't one in your setup. Buy an aftermarket one and install.

The easy way to install the prop valve is to disconnect the line to the drum brakes and gently bend it or loop it to the exit of the prop valve. Then use a short double flared line from the parts store to connect from the distribution block to the prop valve. Another way it to cut and double flare - but most people find double flaring difficult.

After all that, you may decide you want power assist since drums are self assisting and disks are not. But first get it working, then you can decide if you like the feel.

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I will definitely do the sway bar, what brand do you guys recommend? Size? Do I need a rear bar as well?

The torsion bars, from what I've read so far is that 1.03 is a good size that will give good handling and not be too stiff. What is your guys experience with them? Am I on the right track?




There are some recent b- body and other sway bar threads in this section. I think you'll find good guidance in them.

Here's one
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=1#Post7063919

Some folks say you can't go too stiff on a t-bar, but it comes down to the overall package. If the front of your car is around stock weight and there is no significant chassis stiffening, then around 1" is probably a good start but anything down to .93 would probably feel better than what you have now. Also, most (but not all) SS spring rates are around 160 lbs/in vs. 110-130 lbs/in typical of standard and heavy duty factory springs. So with that factor, I would not hesitate to pick a t-bar in the high .96-1.03 range.

After you've made your first set of changes, then you can play with the rear springs as TC suggested. Other options are to see about dearching them or (low buck) moving the spring eye up, or short lowering block. No love for any of them, but you got to work with the constraints you have.

Heh. Looking again at your photo, I see unpaved is a part of the road terrain. So both too stiff and too low can become an issue. Before lowering the rear, see if you can get the front down to factory specs before you start realigning per TC's recommendations. To a small degree the rear will drop when you do that.

Last edited by Mattax; 03/09/12 11:25 AM.