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The most obvious part that is needed is a forged knuckle with slight drop. About the most you can do is 1/2 inch drop before you get into the lower ball joint. There are a couple of dropped knuckles on the market but they aren't really a good design.

If you're clever with the forging blank then you can take the knuckle a couple of different ways including having a C body rotor/Viper caliper bolt on deal.

I know how to do most of this so if you guys have the tooling budget I can help with some engineering consulting.

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That's why I suggested the 73 C-Body spindle. It has a 5/8" drop in it as compared to the B/E spindle and raises the upper ball joint above center, same upper ball joint taper as B/E, bigger/thicker rotor, bigger bearings. KPI is different too. I like your idea of changing it so a common modern brake caliper bolts on. Viper calipers are somewhat pricey and hard to get, and will only get worse as time marches on.. I wonder if Brembo has a "universal street" 6 piston caliper that will work?
Not only would this benefit B/E/A body owners but the C-Body guys are always looking for the 73 C-Body spindles to upgrade from drums. It would be a win /win for many. I would want it forged though not simply cast, You could offer 2 versions with the same forging. One with a stock pin for the C-Body rotor and another with a floater style pin for a H/D bolt on hub ( over size bearings etc.. like circle track cars use) Like you said if your clever make it so to change rotor diameters it's just a simple caliper mounting bracket change. .

Another part I'd like is a redesigned lower ball joint for the E/B bodys that takes a screw in ball joint and have the steering arm dropped/repositioned for bumpsteer.
Also look at the Chrysler kit car front suspension parts for inspiration. Rebuildable lower ball joints etc.... there is a very good reason many tracks banned these cars from competition.
I'm not reinventing the wheel , just looking back in history.