Don't have a good pic at the moment, but will get one for you.

If you had gotten the Cal-Tracs from me, I would have included the straps.

I have seen 3 cars with damaged axle tubes from the spring perch crushing into the tube. These were all 8-3/4 housings and in cars running in the 11's. In one case, the rear end moved enough to allow the tire to hit the wheel lip, cutting the tire severely at the top end of the track.

The extra brace will help prevent that from happening.

I use a piece of 3/16 bar, 1" wide and wrap it from the front of the spring perch, over the axle tube to the back of the perch. Welding it at both ends and stitch welding it to the tube (avoid excessive heat which could warp the tube). This makes the spring perch MUCH stronger.



OOPS !! Hemiroid beat me to it - not a bad drawing (upside down), but I still like to go all the way over the tube.


Also--for the Cal-Tracks to work "right" you want to make sure you have enough front end travel to allow for roll rotation of the car. The magic number according to John Calvert is 5". You can check that by measuring your front wheel lip height at rest, then jack the front of the car up until the wheel start to leave the ground, and re-measure. If you don't have enough travel, lower your torsion bars (evenly). You may need taller front tires to keep your ride height.

Scott