Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by Andrewh
that is a nasty splice.
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I have seen several factory splices on mopars done exactly that way and they were ALWAYS soldered.
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Yes that is from the factory! It's soldered solid and was wrapped with some sticky tape!

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in the second picture on the R side I note several corroded male terminals. Those should all be cleaned as well as the others.
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There's a couple that are a bit "hazy" but aren't corroded... They look much dirtier in the picture but are not that bad or preventing good current! There's only one connector there that's corroded! It's green and you can clearly see it in the picture. That connector goes to the 'transmission backup lamp switch'. The other two 'hazy' male terminals are for the 'high beam foot dimmer switch' and 'hazard warning flasher'... I doubt they have anything to do with the overcharging issue... Despite what they look like in the picture or in person they make good contact! Regardless, I didn't take the time on those terminals because they're not associated with the issue... At least I don't think they are!

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I checked the voltage of the wire in the bulkhead running from the splice with the key ON and it reads 11.3v(firewall side) while the battery reads 12.6v... The voltage of the same wire at the bulkhead on the inside with the key ON reads the same (11.3v)!


the above statement is not clear to me ? I'm assuming this is with the bulkhead plugged together?
I am also assuming this wire is coming from the battery towards the splice
What is the V at the splice itself ?
if it is also 11.3 work back towards to battery.
Your statement indicates a 1.3V drop which is HUGE unless there is a draw pulling the V down or a bad connection not allowing the current to pass thereby causing the V drop.
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Yes, with the bulkhead assembled... As instructed I followed the power wires from the VR and they run into the splice! Out of the 8 wires in the splice only one runs directly into the bulkhead and that's the one I'm referring to(J10A-14RE in the diagram)... From the splice directly to the bulkhead not the battery... That wire runs through the bulkhead into the ignition switch harness where it goes directly to the ignition and is identified as the 'ignition' circuit but it also splits off at the connector and goes down to the number 5 fuse of the fuse block and keeps going into the instrument cluster.
I checked the voltage of that circuit on both sides of the bulkhead connector and the voltage is the same on each side which to me indicates the connection in the bulkhead is making good contact. If it wasn't making good contact one side would have a different voltage right? Could it be something in the cluster drawing voltage??? Could this be the issue??
I hope that clears it up!



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Run a jumper across the two connections and see what the voltage does. The jumper can run from the splice to where ever the firewall side wire goes. If it goes multiple places the one closest to the BH would be best.
DO monitor the battery voltage while doing these tests. beer[quote]

I already wrapped up the splice! I don't have time to do this test, I need to get to work so I'll do it some other time...

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