Thanks for the tips/advice. I should probably be writing all of this down in a book, but then, I would probably not be able to find the book the day I start all of this.
Monte: The angles I'm referring to is not only the downward bends but also allowing for going from the narrow roof area, to the wider area at dashboard level, then slightly narrower down at the frame. Maybe I'll just make it perpendicular from dash level to frame. I can see where a halo bar would allow for easier tube construction, now. But I like the full door bar design better.
CMcAllister: I used the Sawzall on some tubing that was already welded in place. Didn't work at all. Was using DeWalt 18T bimetal blades. Tooth the teeth off faster than I could change the blades. That's why I was asking about the holesaw. I might have attacked the tubing with too fast a rate of speed, like you mentioned. Will try some practice cuts with some 24T blades.
The bends you are talking about are not tough. First you need to know how much bend you need......that's easy and then you need to see how much to roll it out. You figure the roll out by putting a protractor on a pillar and see how much it angles out. So lets say from vertical your A-pillar is laid out 10* at the bottom. You roll the tubing in the bender 10* and make next bend, not hard.
But let me save you some time on the windshield bars. Don't worry about going from main hoop all the way to floor. Go to a dash bar and make the a pillar bars two pieces
