""It runs great but the A/F guage has been in the 10.9 to 12.0 range at cruise and low 13.0 range at idle.""
""At steady 50 mph in drive, I'm seeing a range of 12.0 to 13.8""

Start with your in gear idle A/F. Low 13's are ok, but you might be able to lean it out to 13.8 or so as long as your vacuum numbers stay good. Use your metering screws to get this adjustment (and your internal adjustment are your Idle Feed Restrictors)

Once you have your idle in gear A/F where you want it, then test pulling away from a stop at a normal speed and watch the A/F readings. Dial in your pump cam/squirter to get this in the 13's or so. Just light throttle for now.

After you have the pump cam setup, then take notes of your "lower" cruising speeds again (30,40,50mph). You should be able to get these numbers in the upper 13's to low 14's by using your Idle Air Bleeds. (Your IFR's are also contributing). Each time you change your IAB's, you will need to readjust your Metering Screws.

After you have the IAB's sized correctly, then test your 50-75mph (or what ever "upper" speed you normally cruise). This range is tuned with your Main Jet (and the external adjustment is your Main Air Bleeds).

Once you have all of these set, then test your cruise to hard accel. Try testing at different speeds from 30mph to 75mph and watch for lean or rich spikes. This adjustment is your Power Valve and your Power Valve Channel Restricters. Timing is the PV, and the flow are the PVCR's. If you get a rich spike, then you could lower your PV rating. If you get a lean spike, then you could raise your PV rating. If you can't get either one tuned out with the PV, then test other sizes of your PVCR's.

Once this is all done, then it is time for your WOT testing. With a street car, I like to start at a cruise (maybe 45-55mph) and then go to WOT and write down your A/F spike and your A/F reading at your shift point. Then tune the shift point with your Secondary Jets for approximately 12.5 A/F. Once you have the WOT shift point, then you can tweak the rich/lean spike with your PV rating.

Start at the bottom of the driving range (idle) and tune your way up to WOT (last). If you jump around on tuning your circuits, then you are just going in circles.



1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)