NICE TUNING REPORT!

* Idle in Neutral 1100-1200 rpms 13.1 to 13.5
- You need to be careful with this high of an idle. You may or may not be on the idle circuit and may lead to your metering screws no longer giving you the adjustment that you need. Your Neutral idle readings should be second in importance since you have an auto tranny. After tuning your carb in D (see below), the Neutral A/F readings may just be what they turn out to be.

* Idle in Gear 750-800 rpms 17.8 to 18.0 +
- I always suggest to tune an auto car in D with the emergency brake applied or someone holding the brake. I would suggest that the next time you have the engine warmed up after a short drive, put the car in D and apply the E brake. Then readjust your idle mixture screws for the best vacuum in D at the rpm of your choosing. You may need to keep readjusting your rpms as you go around the carb readjusting your metering screws.
-How many turns out are each of your metering screws?

I would work on the above first before moving forward to the cruising changes. These changes may affect the next tuning process.

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* Slow acceleration from 2000-3500 rpms 10,9 to 11.6
- This could be a rich "transition" into the mains or it could be rich "main" jetting. If you could tell us what size Idle Feed Restricters you have, we might be able to give you a guess. Or, If you wish to lower your main jetting 2-4 sizes and retest your 2000-3500rpm A/F readings again, this might tell us too. If the large change in main jetting does little/nothing in the A/F readings in this rpm range, then this might point to the IFR's being to large which would be causing the rich readings. If the leaner main jetting changes the A/F readings by a point or more, then you know that your main jetting is where you are getting your fuel in the 2000-3500rpm range. A little testing in this cruising area will give you allot of info for your tuning in the near future!!!

* Slow acceleration from 3000-5000 rpms 11.9 to 12.4
- See above. Start with the lower rpm tuning first because the 3000rpm+ numbers may change due to the above idle/transition tuning changes.

* Steady cruise @ 40 mph in OD 12.9 to 13.3
* Steady cruise @ 50 mph in OD 12.0 to 12.5
* Steady cruise @ 60 mph in OD 11.9 to 12.3
- See above
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* Faster acceleration from 2000-3500 rpms 11.5 to 12.0
* Faster acceleration from 3000-5000 rpms 12.6 to 13.1
- See above
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Test WOT last.

Note: As already mentioned by another member, the idle/transition/main circuits TRANSITION into each other. There is no switch that turns one on and the other one off. When you change the idle circuit (IFR's, Metering Screws/Idle Air Bleeds), these changes will also affect the "transitioning" (you might be cruising on the transition circuit at lower rpms: "IFR's & Idle Air Bleeds will help tune this area) affect into the main circuit. This is why you start at the idle circuit with your changes and then move your tuning efforts up the rpm range. (All of these changes at the lower rpms will affect your higher cruising rpms and your WOT results). This is why you test WOT after all of the other circuits are tuned ON A STREET CAR.

Your notes that you have taken are invaluable in your efforts of tuning. Keep these notes to show yourself how far you have come in the weeks to come.

Note: Your main jets may or may not affect your cruising A/F numbers under 3000rpms or so. It just depends on the carb. Some carbs use the transition circuit for cruising and some use the main circuit for cruising.