Quote: I'd be curious to know what machine the average automotive machine shop would use to end-mill a block. Likewise, I'd like to know what the fixture to hold it looks like since you'd want to register off the main bores.
With all this talk about the block not being square (which I find hard to believe), why hasn't anybody suggested checking it ?!?! It can be done very easily with the dial indicator and magnetic base using a slightly longer arm to get the indicator out to that block surface. This is a hell of a lot less hassle and way cheaper than having sh!t machined on a whim!
sogtx , I'm sure he is bagging on me ... as usual
The shop that has my block has a Rottler 769 machining center , same or similar to what Chenoworth was using for their "Block in a Bag" fully remachined block offer , and the same that Performance Only caught a load of crap for because he didn't offer it up first .
I'm ASSuMEing they are registering this off the main line , I'll be on the phone in the morning giving them the size of the Crane rollers so they can hone the lifter bore bushing to size so I will make sure that they are doing this off the main line , the mains on this block have been reworked so I want to make sure that the rear of the block is perpendicular to the crank line as the car is a 4 speed and I don't want to have to cut up the nickle deposit return soda cans to correct it ...
The other 383 I just had decked was not square on the decks , and neither was this block, if the decks are off why would, or should, I ASSuME that all the other machined surfaces are square?
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