Pete, going to a roller is going to cost you $1,000. Even going to a solid flat tappet will be an extra $80 for pushrods. I like solids myself, and if that is what you decided to do, the rule of thumb is to go roughly 6-7 degrees bigger @.050 with the solid cam for the same rpm range. If you plan to keep the power brakes, I wouldnt recommend anything bigger than say 240@.050 with a hydraulic and 245ish with a solid. Thats the ragid edge. And nothing tighter than 108 or so on the LSA either.

IMO, with a street type application (6000 rpm or so), a good newer design hydraulic cam is going to make within 10-15 horsepower of a solid cam of similar rpm range. An apples to apples comparison years ago with my car showed a <a href="mailto:12.19@114[/Email] with the 3844 Hughes hydro and a 12.08 with the 4550 solid..

Here is Hughes new HEH hydraulic that has replaced the old 3844..

HEH 3742 AL INT .548" EXH .555" 237°/242° 108°

I actually like the idea of making your E-heads "work" a little more over the .500 mark because they flow real well up there. I also have to agree with a spring change. Its an easy deal and decent springs can be had for $100 bones.