I will ignore many of the snide remarks directed at me on this thread ( I got no problem if you disagree with me )as they only show a persons ignorance and do nothing to help azmopardart. I'm also not partaking in this thread to " blow my own horn" or impress anyone with my automotive knowledge ( that's kids crap ) as this also does nothing to help azmopardart solve his problems. That being said, to azmopardart: Sounds like you have most of your problems solved by getting the cam oriented to the crank properly - got the dots lined up. Glad to see you are taking the "next step" in professional engine building by degreeing in the cam. Once you have done it, it will become an automatic with future build-ups. The process has a two fold objective: 1 - verify what the cam Mfg is telling you ( cam specs ). 2 - to tailer the cam to your specific needs at the track by advancing or retarding it ( in relation to the crank )from the Mfg's suggested installation. Remember this: You will seldom find a cam off more than 3-4 degrees from there posted ( cam card ) info. - lining up the dots!! There are always exceptions of coarse - but rare. Just be wary if you come up with numbers that are way different than what the cam Mfg sez. If you are positive your numbers are correct and they are way off from the Mfg's numbers, you will probably be better off dumping the cam rather than trying to fix it with off-set keys, etc. Don't make changes to the cam timing greater than about 4 degrees ( advance or retard )from the suggested in stall numbers. You will be better off changing cams to one that is better suited to your specific needs. Finally, don't forget that 3/8" fuel line! Good luck, John