Quote:

Exciting stuff!

Suspension and chassis:
Have you recently replaced ball joints and pitman/idler arms? And are you using factory LCA's? You could brace the LCA's (AR Engineering kit from firm feel). You could also weld up and brace the k member, if you want to go so far as to take it out (AR engineering kit from firm feel)



I haven't rebuilt anything suspension wise that's why I was wondering what else I'd need to replace as my coworker asked me about replacing my LCA ball joints. And yes, I'll be using the factory LCA's. I also have an entire front end assembly (drum-to-drum) with all the suspension components and steering linkages from a '71 Demon if I need to steal parts. It wouldn't be difficult to brace the LCA's when they come out. I just need to make sure one of my friends has a welder handy. As much as I'd like to weld up and brace the k-frame, I think I'm going to hold off on that till I do an engine swap.

Quote:

Brakes:
I'm not familiar with the piston sizes in those brembo calipers. The cobra calipers are well sized for the rear. I would recommend no distribution block. Just a straight line back. And a t fitting for the front.
Find out front piston sizes and run the math sheet.
Your master may be fine. I run a 15/16 2 bolt I got from dr diff. The 15/16 might be a better size for you. Though If I were you, I would start with the master you have and change if you feel you need it after running.
Rear brakes: I run braided lines to my rear calipers for ease of working on them. Did dr diff send you a set? If not, see if the front braided brake line part number will work (I used same PN braided on all 4).



I just went to the garage and measured the pistons with my digital caliper. The reading was kind of iffy because my batteries were dying but all of the pistons were about 36.5mm in diameter (1.43").

I know Dr Diff recommends the 15/16" bore but when I checked on his website a couple days ago, I think he said the MC was out of stock. I don't think I have feets' brake calculator saved to my laptop. I could probably do a quick search for it.

Dr Diff sent me some hoses, brackets, and hardware to install with the lines. I'm just not sure how they go on as it's the first time I've worked with rear discs. I can post pictures of what I have later.

Quote:

Wheels:
You're going to have to nail your back spacing if you're going to get 275/35/18's to fit square. I'm unfamiliar with 2 piece wheels- but don't you need new cylinders to change offset? Sounds expensive to swap sets?
What size wheels do you have now? How do they fit?
I run 265/40/18 square on the street (I like the taller tire), and 275/35 fit as well. I'm running +45mm offset in the front(7.2" back spacing), and they rub the frame and the wheel well at about the same time (around 1.25 turn of wheel). I lost turning radius. If you don't go so low, you can run less offset.
The rears are tight as well both inner and outer wheel tubs have tire rub marks from tire rubbing. 60.5" width rear with +45mm offset there as well. Also running dr diff offset leaf spring hangers (would be in leaf springs if not)

Cheap way to find perfect fit is to get a high offset wheel of the size and tire you want, and use spacers until you find the 'perfect' location in the wheel well. Subtract the spacer width from the offset and you're done. Where are you located? I have a 18x9.5 +45 spare laying around.

Hope that helps a bit.



So, story on the wheels... OzHemi's has a wheel "guy" who supplies him outters. I believe, the same guy also took a set of the centers on OzHemi's Torana and decided to replicate and manufacture a cast set of them. I've seen his ad on CL a couple months ago, but he stated I could get any width between 4-13" (or something) for the 18" wheel, any offset, in any bolt pattern for $1650. So, pretty good deal. If he doesn't have the cast centers anymore, OzHemi also has a supplier for forged centers and I'll just have to bite the bullet and get those. Only problem with going with off the shelf wheels is that I think the rears are going to need less of an offset than the fronts since it's an A-body rear and not a B-body. I just measured and it's ~58.5" rotor-to-rotor.

With regarding to tire size, I know it's doable. If it's going to be that difficult to get a 275/35/18 on there, I can go one step down to 265/35/18 (losing some sidewall) or I can probably try to fit a 255/40/18 which may offer a more comfortable ride.

Now, on my Stealth, I do have some aftermarket wheels on them. They're MSW Type 11's. I don't recall completely but I think they were 17x7's or 17x8's with 5.7 bs (45mm or 38 mm offset). I was using 245/45/17 wheels on that. I could probably tell my mechanic to remove one of them and I could try using one as a mach up; however, I'm not sure if they'll fit on the fronts with the big brakes or center register. If they do fit, I could probably just put some new tires on those and hold off on wheels for awhile.
http://www.ozracing.com/car_wheels_var/MSW/25190/AVANTGARDE/MSW%2011/25536.aspx#

I'm located in Covina, CA 91724.

Thanks for your help.