Completely agree that once it's set . . it's not being removed.

Since someone was good enough to leave the hood pins out prior to a drive around town, the backing was busted loose and repaired with a nice fiberglass patch, a piece of angle iron, and a couple bolts. This made the decision easy for me to repair it. I started by making templates traced from the fender contours, and set them the width of the hood, creating a tool to be able to work the hood. Not gonna lie, took me a lot of time and some careful planning to correct the hood, but it turned out VERY well.

The reason the hoods warp is a combination of load, time, and resin cure. When composite parts are cured there is much to consider. Unsure if we had any of it down in the US (or world) in 1970. The basic idea that when a bend angle or contour is layed up and cured, the resin drying (shrinking) closes the angle or contour, even though the tool is trying to keep it in it's perfect form. While each company has their own proprietary formulas for figuring the amount it will close, often trial and error prevail. So if Ma MOPAR would have thought this out better, they would have created a tool that was less contoured than the final desired shape. It was appearent this was not the case when I broke the stiffening structure off the back of mine. I had to clamp it to the tool to get it to come down. Then bonding the structure to the back again, the bonding system helps to account for the variations, leaving me a pretty good hood.

Picture the stresses already in the hood, now add load in the direction the hood wants to bow, over years, with additional curing of the resin system (yes they continue to cure, and become brittle) . . . . bang, big open gap.

Sorry for the long disertation, but figured if you understood why, and were presented with a solution, it's easier to fix.

And if it's warped as hell, all AAR savy will just accept it for being what it is