I know it gets mistaken for other leaks alot, but It's definitely not leaking anywhere else. I pulled the transmission out to check and I also have an inspection camera that I used. Everything is dry above it. I even dropped the engine back off at the engine builders shop, he said he went through it, changed the seal again and put in new rings because apparently they weren't seated and as soon as I put the engine back in the car and started it up, it instantly eaked again.
Again I 100% agree with Cab,
A couple of suggestions:
1. Put a fuel pump pressure tester / vacuum gauge on the dipstick Tube with your breathers in place, start the motor and see if it is in fact building any crankcase pressure. The gauges are cheap and available at almost any parts house, harbor freight etc.
2. I might at this point either find a shop with a Dyno that can run the motor while observing the back side,
3. Put dye in the oil. Start the motor and run it for a bit to make sure it's mixed.
4. Brake clean the cr-p out of the back side Leave it sit and do it again.
5. Start the motor and shut is off as soon as oil appears.
6. Pull the trans etc and see what the dye reveals. You could have a porosity in the casting or something else going on
7. Maybe buy or build and engine run stand. One can be fabbed up fairly cheap, especially if you don't have to run it for more than a minute or two. And should you have to, using a garden hose, fill the block with water. Put a restrictor in the outlet hose that will allow enough flow to keep the engine cool. You should now be able to see exactly where the leak is.
NOTE: The motors don't require a lot (stand wise) as long as you don't start flogging it. I've seen more than one instance where they were started sitting on the oil pan. NO KIDDING!!!
For some reason I question the following:
he said he went through it, changed the seal again and put in new rings because apparently they weren't seated
My BS detector is smelling a bit warm, not quite melting yet but warm
Good luck and keep us posted
