JohnRR the pad looks intact
D383
3 1 2
R
its a 67 casting date and only has a number stamped on the bottom of the bellhousing under the starter
It had been apart prior to me, one of the 906 heads ended with a -1 and the other -5
Recently it has been honed and the pistons/rods bead blasted, crank polished, machinist said a couple of pistons were down a few thou, and a couple of bores slightly larger (when I did ring gap, 2 ended up .004-5 bigger)
When I originally pulled the motor down a couple of years ago I checked the deck heights with a single piston and got not identical but similar results to below, that piece of paper long gone though
The odd side was at 0 ish - I could get .003 up on #1 giving it a tap with a dowel and 2 others less, but #5 is just under
Pad side however is way off
2 - 0, +.004T
4 - +.003, +.0075T
6 - +.0025, +.007T
8 - +.005, +.008T
If that side was machined, it was done very poorly compared to the other side (and would explain the intact pad?) After looking at how both 5&6 seem a bit lower than the neighbors id say I lost a thou or two on the crank polish and 6 must be a loose piston with the high tilt value
Machinist said I would have a bit of piston slap when cold and not to race it.... plans changed - it was thrown together to get the car moving, but now has much better internals collating. Wondering how it would go with some sidewinders and 2 different gasket heights, run it till it blows and then put the good stuff in... lols
Can you post a picture of the pad area ? The fact that the info is still thetre tells me it was either purposely machined like that and you would see a step , I have had a couple of 383's decked on a Rottler CNC and specifically asked that the ID pad not have the info machined off.
If you are expecting all the pistons to be the same depth from cylinder to cylinder you are expecting way too much from that engine. It MIGHT have been pretty close when it was new but after x number or hundreds , or even thousands of heat cycles?
I'm still surprised that you have positive pistons , are you measuring with a deck bridge directly over the center of the pin or out at an edge and rocking the piston?
Do you have a way to measure from the crank centerline to the top of the deck on the 4 corners ?
