So I just grounded the GRN terminal to the body, and there is no difference. I am getting 12 volts at the relay, 9 volts at the regulator, 9 volts on the right side of the ballast, 5 at the left side, and 5 at the coil. I also found a weird click under the dash when I turn the key to the start postion. Found a strange aftermarket blue light under the dash, so pulling the dash apart next to find what the strange click is. I think my wiring is good, but as this was a basket case car, maybe someone did some funny stuff in the underdash harness. Something is pulling voltage for no reason. I have to have 12 volts at both sides of the ballast and at the coil, right? Will start pulling dash apart and keep you posted....
The clicking and blue light you see and hear is the Voltage Limiter for the gauges on the back of the Dash cluster and has nothing to do with your non start issue. It's supposed to do that. Check the one on your Bee. It'll be doing the same thing. Should do it in On and ACC positions of IGN switch.
Did you replace the Dash Harness also? If it's the original pull out and clean the terminals as corrosion may be causing your voltage drop, could overheat and cause more problems.
Check the resistance between cavities J and P of the Dash Harness- these run through your Ammeter and any resistance can cause your voltage drop.
Check the Fusible Link from Starter Relay to cavity J of the engine harness for resistance.
I'd disconnect the new harnesses and make sure each wire is in its correct cavity.
Check for voltage at backside of Bulkhead connector, cavities T yellow starter wire, and Q Brown to Ballast/ Blue +Coil wire while IGN switch is in Start position.
Check for voltage at cavity N blue w/ 2 white tracer power to voltage regulator- ballast resistor with key in ON position. The Light Blue w/ yellow tracer wire to Ignition Module connects to this side of the Ballast.
