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Well here's a little update. My friend who was offering me the camshafts passed away roughly a little over a month ago from cancer. Hank Kruse was one bad a** car guy and acted like a kid in his 69' Charger RT/SE and died at the age of 69. I will really miss him, and the parts he left behind that I bought up are really going to help get my car together. And I have finally come up with what I believe is a reasonable combo.

I found an old man who is giving me a 69' HP 383 block for free and possibly a 400 later once he gets his son to bring it over. Either way the combo is going to remain the same.

*383 block standard bore or .030 over
*KB400 pistons (-6cc dome)
*452 heads with some port work and bowl blending
*Factory Hi-po manifolds
*Edelbrock RPM performer intake
*Barry Grant 750cfm carb
*4 speed, AC, manual disc brakes
*3.91 gear with a 285/70/SR15 BFGoodrich tires
* Shooting for 9.5:1 CR
*Upgrade to electronic ignition

The only reason I'm sticking with my factory performance manifolds is due to clearance issues with the clutch linkages and power steering pump.

How detrimental are headers if the rest of the combo is there for the larger cam grinds? I am not going over .500 lift with my cam selection.

What are the main differences between the older and newer grind of the 284/.484? I know the LSA on the new grind is 114 compared to the 108 LSA on the older grind. How does this affect the motor in all aspects?

I'm really interested in the looks of Lunati's voodoo cams, particularly the 60302 and 60303. My goal out of this car is a fun, streetable car, limited strip, and plenty of torque to move the 4000lbs. Like to get a mid to low 13 the one or two times I take it to the quarter.

I had bought up Hank's old super stock springs, but thinking I'll just stick with the factory springs.

Thanks for the help and advice thus far guys. Still looking for opinions now that I have decided on a combination and goal.

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First of all my condolences to
the family of the man that died. I too suffered
losses in my family due to the dreaded disease.
God bless. Now it sounds like you are
getting closer to your goal. As far as telling
the engine size 383 vs. 400 (.060 over 383), it
could be stamped on the side of the block and/or
a code is on the front pad near the distributor.
Those are your telltales, and IF it is a 400, well a little arm lengthening CAN do a lot for
low - midrange torque/power. Since it is basically
a street ride, the magnum exhausts are more than
adequate. 13 second rides DO work well with them
as long as your engine tune is sharp. 3.91's can
get you to low 13's, but the cam plays a BIG role
with the 4000 lb car weight. You may or may not
need lower the gear to 4.10-4.30 range. Pick the
right cam and work on the ignition timing/jetting.
It may be what you need without sacrificing the
driveability and day to day manners of the car.
The Voodoo cams are of a good design, just watch
your lift with the stock heads, or you may have
some machine work to do on the valve seats. The
superstock springs, hold on to them!! Find out
the Spring #'s and it will lead you to the rate
of the spring. Your better approach is to use
the current springs (unless they are really worn)
and put a spring clamp kit just rearward of the
front spring eye. Add a pinion snubber to the
differential (nose) and it will lower your traction problems at the strip. Set pinion snubber
about 1 - 2" from floorboard at strip, depending
how hard you drive at strip. Not really needed on
the cruising runs. The 114 degree cam basically
gives a broader powerband and a smoother idle. The
108 degree cam gives a narrow but higher powerband
and has more of a "rumpety - rump" type idle.
Either one are good, it just depends on the engine
design you have (compression, cam, carb, gears,
vehicle weight, intended usage), You get the picture? Food for thought my friend.