Originally Posted By stinger
Originally Posted By DAYCLONA
Originally Posted By Frankenduster
Originally Posted By ScottSmith_Harms
Seems like a lot of painters like to paint cars "thier way" (which of course is always the best way) LOL! Whats wrong with using the factory procedure? Seems that everyone wants to fight the tried and true factory method of painting with all of the panels gapped and adjusted before paint, etc.


I agree but it addresses the question I asked earlier. How does ONE person make it everywhere on the car without getting dry edges? Example: Starting with the hood, doors and trunklid open, you spray the "hidden" areas then close up and spray the outer body. How do you get paint everywhere and still not come back to areas that have already dried?




I think some confusion has taken place in this thread, the initial question of the OP is the painting of the "jambed" areas with a SINGLE STAGE paint, then finishing the outer body in a 2 STAGE FINISH, which often results in a slight color and or sheen/gloss texture change either right after painting or as the finishes age, GYC has termed this "El Cheapo" technique as "Pre Painting" as if it's something new,...it's been done for decades by cheap painters/owner who don't want to "waste" 2 stage, or the time of applying clear coat in the "jambed" areas...

Frankenberry I'll take you thru my procedure, 1st whatever paint is being applied to the body is used THRU OUT the entire structure, EVERYWHERE...after the vehicle has been bodyworked and primed and blocked to death, I'll remove the hood, doors, trunk lid and any other panels that have hidden areas, all the jambs, backsides,the interior,engine compartment, flanges, tabs, etc, etc are painted, then the panels are hung back on the car and realigned, then backtaping and aperture tape is applied in all jambed area to create a soft spray edge as well as a blending line for the outer body paint and the previously jambed areas so that after the body is sprayed the transition of the outer body painting blends into the jambed areas with little to no noticeable sheen difference, which can be polished with no effort later when the outer paint is cut and buffed, if a jambed area can be painted while doing the entire outer body then do it at the final painting session,but basically when I'm in the final painting stage, all the panels/doors/hood/trunk/etc are in place in the closed position with backtaping and aperture tape in place, when I'm done with a vehicle, it has the same gloss/texture and color thru the vehicle, there's a lot of masking, backtaping, aperture tape, papered areas etc, but when it's done it looks like it was painted all at the same time with no exposed/unpainted areas unless they were intended as such, as in an OEM underside application/finish

Mike



This is exactly how I do it on our customer's car's at my shop. If you spend day's stick blocking a car you should not have any imperfections in the body as well.





Ohhhhhhh! the pain! smile ...I'll stick block really delicate areas, or areas with a lot of contours, or very limited surface areas where a small block or rubber pad can't fit in effectively, OR if it's really flat panels and I'm shooting the car black, but I agree, stick blocking is very effective, however most won't do it because of the tedious pace, but the results are awesome

I stick blocked this customers A12 from start to finish, BC/CC Dupont Chroma Preimer

Mike

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