Quote:

Quote:

separated, the blue side has full battery voltage in 'run' and the brown side has full voltage in 'start', but combine the 2 sides either by the ballast, OR, jumpering them together, and the voltage drops 2.5 volts from full battery voltage.
The Hei conversion says it HAS to have a full 12 volts at all times or it wont live..

The brown side will always drop several volts at least from the starter draw. The brown side cannot have 12+ volts during cranking cuz the starter draws alot & will drops to ~10 V or so whether it is tied to the blue wire circuit or not. If you tie the two together the 10+ during cranking will be enough to fire the HEI and when it starts it'll be fed 13+, the normal charging voltage



The starter is disabled right now, so its not drawing it down. The brown bypass wire puts out a full 13 volts when turning the key to start with the starter disabled, which is perfect. The blue 'run' wire also puts out 13 volts when the key is in run, also perfect. Now, this is with the wires not jumpered together or linked together through the ballast! Now, if i hook them to the ballast like its supposed to be, OR, just jumper them together, the voltage when in start drops to 10.5, a whole 2.5 volts less. So, if i jumper them together to run the HEI, it will still drop to 10.5. Everything im reading says its got to have at least 12 all the time..Like i said, separated, the blue 'run' wire and the brown bypass 'start' wire put out 13 volts, which indicates no voltage drop through the bulkhead, BUT, jumper them together, OR, hook them to the ballast as they are supposed to be and the 'start' voltage drops to 10.5. Makes no damn sense. Why linking the 2 sides together causes this is unexplainable..

SO, Im thinking, get a relay and use the old blue and brown ballast wires to trigger it and pull power from the starter relay to power the new setup. What relay do i use for this, a 4 or 5 pin? Thoughts?