Quote:

the blue wire does go dead when you turn the key to crank & juice flows back thru the ballast over to the blue wire side then out to the ECU as it too needs to be fed in "crank". If you go with an ECU (HEI) and an E coil & both are designed for full on 12V (no ballast) then yes you would T the blue and brown wires together then when it starts you also have current in the brown wire circuit from the blue wire cuz they are tied together but it (the brown wire) dead ends back at the ign sw "ign2" terminal & there's no problems with that. The Carbonaro effect is on so I will check back tomorrow



yes but what im saying is that when the 2 sides are tied together, as they are now, they screw with eachother and drop the voltage down less than 12 volts, hence, the problem im currently having..like i described earlier, separated, the blue side has full battery voltage in 'run' and the brown side has full voltage in 'start', but combine the 2 sides either by the ballast, OR, jumpering them together, and the voltage drops 2.5 volts from full battery voltage. No explanation for why this happens..
The Hei conversion says it HAS to have a full 12 volts at all times or it wont live..