I was considering using the Wilwood cast aluminum booster which provides both a 7/8" bore and clean good looks. the issue i believe is that the brake piston rod does not snap/click into this booster like a normal chrysler M/C.
Garret,.....I'm assuming you mean the wilwood cast aluminun master cylinder,......I don't think they have a cast aluminum booster?
.....the wilwood Master cylinder is a nice piece,....you would have to alter the end of your manual pedal rod, by either welding on a treaded sleeve 3/8-24 if I recall, just make sure the sleeve end that goes toward your rod end GOES OVER and gets welded, don't butt weld it (think safety!)......you may also be able to use a portion of the adjustable Mopar Performance Adjustable manual brake pedal rod?......if you prefere a factory master cylinder, I'd recommend a disk/drum 70 B body application....Cardone # M1614 If I recall, or AutoZone M1475....pic attached
I had actually never heard anyone suggest not using a proportioning valve, but i would like the idea if it is sound from an engineering standpoint. Please advise.
Garret, ONLY! If your running 4 wheel disc and a disc/drum master you will not need a proportioning valve or adjustable bias valve,....rear line will come directly off the master, the front lines will require a standard brake tee to tee off the front left and right lines when eliminating the proportioning valve.....I built many 4 wheel disc systems for early B bodies, as well as E bodies, and later B bodies using this system, tens of thousands of miles with no failures on my own cars, as well as customers cars......hope this helps you out
Mike
