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Prostreetdodge, do you have other angles of that CAD drawing?

Been thinking a little more about my possible rear suspension choices. I'd like to go the 4 link route but I also want to retain as much of the original car as possible including the floors and rails. In theory I could use this weld in Martz kit and still do the 25.3 cage, independent of one another correct? Or I could also go the Calvert route too. John is a super nice guy and with his record holding parts (7.24@200) I think a strong argument could be had between Calvert parts and a 4 link made my whoever.

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That was an image I found on a Google search. I think it was from one of the chassis kit companies (Jerry Bickel I think).

Since there is no spec on suspension, yes you can run stock front and rear frame rails. I kept my front frame rails (cut off the pinch weld flange and re-welded for a cleaner look) and installed an Alter-K-ation front end.

The SFI spec is for safety, so it pertains to the portion of the car which protects the driver in case of an incident. The faster and heavier the car, the more bars needed.

I plan on using mine as a street/strip toy, so I am basically doing a 25.5 cage. But, I am leaving out the funny car portion at the moment. The car will still pass to 8.50. And if someone else wants to buy it and make it faster, it will take very little to cert to 7.50. (basically the forward portion of the funny car cage). I have been 8.50 in a door car. I don't need to go faster.

What motor are you planning on using to need a chassis that fast?

And I hate to be the one to break it to you, but there is no way you are going to keep or reinstall a "stock" floor pan in the car once you have a 25.3 cage in it.

Scott