Quote: READ CAREFULLY ABOUT USING THE PORCELAIN TO READ JETTING AND READ THE LAST SENTENCE ABOUT POPPING THROUGH THE EXHAUST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I actually experienced that back when I was 17.....Put a fresh motor in the car and it ran great (at least I thought it was great) on the street and at the track.....I then uncapped the exhuast and the car picked up from 13.20's @ 100 to 12.70@ 105..........after racing I capped it back up and drove home......I get almost home and decided to hammer on it and it had a slip pop out of the exhuast......it never crossed my mind that it was the plugs, so after changing valve springs and doing ALL kinds of other stuff, a friend suggested putting a fresh set of plugs in it...I told him they were new and had less than 30 miles on them.......I went ahead and did it and it fixed it!!! Freaked me out and learned a good lesson......Thing was, I knew it was rich because it'd picked up so much by uncapping the exhaust.....
yep and how many people do you see that say they keep adding jet until the porcelain has tanned? little do they know they have probably fouled out the plug. it may still run but it wont be right. I think there are few that really know how to read a plug or have the tools. really I don't pay much attention to the fuel ring on a N/A motor you can see what you need on the base ring in most cases.I know the boosted cars pay a lot more attention to that. and also I have found the fastest way down the track is not good for a bracket racer. rich is not good for being consistent.I was just offered to use a LM2 from a friend on here. I'll get it when I get chance and see where mine is and if it compares to where I think it's at.I know mine is over rich on the idle and transition and should be mildly lean up top.don't care about cruise at all.
I totally agree with your method of plug reading. But without a clean neutral to check it out on top end your wasting your time for WOT readings. IMO
